Think of this as a baked-cheese-lava-cake hybrid. Dense and creamy on the outside, light and mousse-y through the centre. I ate a slice of La Viña’s cheesecake in the Basque town of San Sebastian every evening on our honeymoon many moons ago, and can still remember the surprisingly accommodating dessert stomachs it unlocked within us both. I implored my friend Dani Valent to score the recipe when she visited a few months later, so that we could hope to recreate the feeling at home. Not only did Dani wrangle the recipe, she perfected it, shared it and, I reckon, helped make this method of baking cheesecake with a wibble-wobble into the international sensation it is. I have two gripes with the usual big ones, however: the first is that they require cooling before slicing, to avoid a lavapalooza (made that mistake before myself!). The second, is that they’re not exactly midweek baking friendly – they’re an occasional bake. By pouring the batter into a muffin tray, you can get around both: they cool faster AND you can freeze any leftovers in perfectly proportioned cakes for two... or one, really.